Two Days In Chamonix
It had been four years since my last trip to Chamonix when I skied the Haute Route. The town has a special feel and, from my perspective, Chamonix is the soul of European alpinism.
I wasn't doing anything special or particularly interesting, just a couple of days of down hill skiing over a weekend that would have otherwise seen me in Paris. Unfortunately, Paris was deep in mourning over the Charlie Hebdo and other associated terrorist attacks and the unification rally in response to the attacks was planned for the weekend. It seemed like a good time to leave the City.
I had been in Paris while the attacks occurred and it was all a little surreal. Paris is a city I know well and love but it has also had a long history of revolution and violent protest. Despite this history, I have many proud Parisian friends and they were struggling to come to grips with the attacks and a number viewed the attack as fundamentally changing the relationship between the City, segments of the community and the people as a whole.
Chamonix was a great tonic to the madness that had been unfolding in Paris. There may be better ski towns with better facilities but I cant think of one that surpasses Chamonix for atmosphere and setting.
The Saturday was spent at Grand Montets, which was a little hard packed from the Col down towards the Argentiere Glacier but other than that it was okay. Over night saw about 15cm of snow fall with rain in Chamonix The top at Grand Montet was closed with 90 min lines to get to mid-mountain. We opted for Brevent and Flegere and enjoyed the fresh snow which was out of the wind with no queues.
I stayed a Gite Vagabond, basically a backpackers with a great bar downstairs. For around 45 euro per night I had a basic breakfast, a hearty meal for dinner, a warm shower and a clean bunk bed in a dorm room. A good Happy Hour between 5.30 pm and 6.30 pm in a historic bar set the tone for the evening. The Gite hadn't changed in the 4 years since my last stay, it had probably not changed much in the last 50 years!
Given events in Paris a familiar and comfortable environment is a good thing.
I wasn't doing anything special or particularly interesting, just a couple of days of down hill skiing over a weekend that would have otherwise seen me in Paris. Unfortunately, Paris was deep in mourning over the Charlie Hebdo and other associated terrorist attacks and the unification rally in response to the attacks was planned for the weekend. It seemed like a good time to leave the City.
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| The view across to the Aiguille du Midi |
I had been in Paris while the attacks occurred and it was all a little surreal. Paris is a city I know well and love but it has also had a long history of revolution and violent protest. Despite this history, I have many proud Parisian friends and they were struggling to come to grips with the attacks and a number viewed the attack as fundamentally changing the relationship between the City, segments of the community and the people as a whole.
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| ...and again, it never grows tired. |
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| Good conditions at Flegere |
Chamonix was a great tonic to the madness that had been unfolding in Paris. There may be better ski towns with better facilities but I cant think of one that surpasses Chamonix for atmosphere and setting.
The Saturday was spent at Grand Montets, which was a little hard packed from the Col down towards the Argentiere Glacier but other than that it was okay. Over night saw about 15cm of snow fall with rain in Chamonix The top at Grand Montet was closed with 90 min lines to get to mid-mountain. We opted for Brevent and Flegere and enjoyed the fresh snow which was out of the wind with no queues.
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| The Gite, a cheap, cheerful and clean |
I stayed a Gite Vagabond, basically a backpackers with a great bar downstairs. For around 45 euro per night I had a basic breakfast, a hearty meal for dinner, a warm shower and a clean bunk bed in a dorm room. A good Happy Hour between 5.30 pm and 6.30 pm in a historic bar set the tone for the evening. The Gite hadn't changed in the 4 years since my last stay, it had probably not changed much in the last 50 years!
Given events in Paris a familiar and comfortable environment is a good thing.
