Gangstan, Lahul and the Shingo La
It had been two years since my last climbing trip to northern India. So to make up for the lost year, this trip was for two weeks with the objective of climbing two 6000 metre peaks. I also decide to change the agency that I used and an old climbing friend of mine suggested that I contact Luke Smithwick who is the owner operator of Himalaya Alpine. He specialises in customised trips to seldom traveled parts of the Himalaya.
After some back and forth, it was decided to go to the Lahul area of Himachal Pradesh, Gangstan and Ramjack, as in September the monsoon is normally finished in the Lahul region
I met Luke and Kyle, an Alaskan guide, in Manali along with Kunsong, a Nepali living in Manali and Gomba Sherpa from the Khumbu. We were also joined by Charles from the Philippines They both regularly work for Luke. We finalised the gear before loading the van and heading into the drizzle over Rhotang Pass and onto Keylong in the Bhagra Valley. After settling into the hotel we headed up to the local monastery which was perched above the town in order to help with our acclimitisation.
After a stiff uphill walk of a few hundred vertical metre we arrived at the Shashur Monastery which means "in the blue pines" and had great views over the valley.
The Monastery was established in the 17th century by Lama Deva Gyatso who was a missionary of the King of Bhutan. When Deva Gyatso was cremated his heart did not burn and is now contained in a black image of the Lama within the Monastery. The wall have a depiction. In June/July Chham or Devil Dance is performed in the Monastery and devotees travel from around the region to attend.
Today the Monastery belongs to the Drukpa order of monks and, unlike some other orders these guys are monks for life.
Their headquarters is in Darjeeling and the Head Monk gave us a tour then invited us up for tea and tsampa. The Monk was drawing to the end of his three year posting in Keylong and was due to return to Darjeeling to meet his holiness who would decide his next posting. It all sounded a little like being in the Army to me.
The following day we set off for the road head at Zanskar Sumdo. There were stops at Satingri to pick up some refrigerated Juniper branches for the pre climb pooja followed by a passport check and Tibetan mutton momos at Darcha.
We unloaded at Zanskar Sumdo and met the horseman, Sanjay. Gomba and Kunsong supervised the loading and we set off for a two hour walk to a better campsite up the valley. in what was to become a pattern for the trip, the rain descended and we huddled waiting for the horses with the tentage in the rain.
The valley was not a dry as the Zanskar valley and was full of red shrubs and other small plants while the campsite was by a stream and there was a nice grass cover for the horses.
Sanjay and his team of six horse and one mule work for Luke for 100 days during the monsoon. Based in Manali, Sanjay walks his horse around 250 km north of Manali to support Luke's trips in Ladakh, gradually moving south as the monsoon recedes. This was his last trip before the horses return to the pasture at Manali and start their job moving firewood for winter.
The following day we sorted some climbing protocols before moving up to the base camp which was situated below the dry glacier, beyond which the horses could not proceed.
We trimmed down our gear that afternoon and broke lunch rations for the high camp while Gomba and Kunsong prepared the group gear to carry up to the high camp in the morning. The day finished with the peaks to the south clouded in and we hoped for better in the morning.
Despite my concerns, the day was clear for the pooja and after the Juniper finished burning, we se off up the river toward the dry glacier. After negotiating the terminal moraine the dry glacier was a like a highway leading our camp.
Unfortunately, after starting with clear sky, the afternoon saw the cloud roll in and we made camp while light snow fell steadily. Our plan the next day was to climb to the col at about 5400 metres and to scout a route. Gomba and Kunsong left us for the Base Camp and Kyle and Luke prepared a culinary delight for dinner.
As we were not trying to summit, we woke late and set off at about 9 am and made steady progress to the col, arriving after about 3 hours after navigating our way through crevasses. To the south lay the region from Kirting to Udaipur and we spotted a good route to the summit for the following day. We plodded back to camp as the clouds rolled in through the afternoon although they were much lighter than the previous day. Maybe the weather was going to smile on us.
We woke early with the moon setting in the south west and clear skies. There was a good freeze overnight and we were able to move quickly through the crevasse field by following our steps from the previous day. We reached to col in a little over two hours and started simu-climbing up the ridge. Low on the ridge the conditions underfoot were good but higher there was unconsolidated snow over rock bands. We climbed up to a vertical ice wall on the ridge which had good ice below the snow and we were able to follow the base of the ice as we ascended the ridge.
We kept a weather eye and by mid day the skies were still clear. A few stacked lenticular clouds started to appear then some high fast moving cirrus. Within an hour a cloud bank had built up and was closing in and Kyle and I were concerned about the weather. In addition, Luke's toe was feeling the affect of the cold and we were still 150 vertical metres from the top which would take us another two hours to ascend and one hour to descend. With these factors in mind we decided to call it a day.
Six 50 metre abseils saw us in a position to down climb and, when we looked back up, our high point was enveloped in cloud. By the time we were back at our High Camp the col was blanketed in cloud and it was snowing on the tents.
We backed up and headed back to our Base Camp to wash clothes and bodies and laze in the sun. Once again a fine morning gave away to return of the clouds covering the peaks in the afternoon.
We reviewed our plans that evening. Given the limited weather window that was being offered, we were not going to be able to climb the 1500 vertical metres from the high camp on Ramjack to the summit. We re-calibrated our thinking and Luke suggested that we head up to the Shingo La to the north on the border between Lahul and Zanskar. There were three viable 6000 metre peaks and I had hoped that being further north would reduce the moisture and give us a bigger weather window.
The following day would be long as we needed to move back to the road head at Zanskar sumdo and then up a trail to the Shingo La, a total of about 18km. It was a pleasant walk back to Zanskar Sumbo where we stopped at the tea house. Much to our surprise our inquiries revealed that the road, past of India's objective of a road to every village by 2020, was navigable by Tata Sum to half way to the Shingo La. An even bigger surprise was that there was a Tata Sumo sitting at the tea house. While Luke negotiated with the driver I played with Karma Pegma, giver of karma, who was now the proud owner of my new Fox 40 rescue whistle. I am sure that Karma Pegma's mother contemplated her karma as she spent time with her small child with a loud whistle.
We bounced our way up the new road past workers from Bihar using sledgehammers and small hammers to break down rock for aggregate and gravel and bulldozers pushing through the road. After about 6 km the road ended and we were back on foot thankful for the break from walking. We drove past the high camp for Ramjack with the peak towering 1500 metres above and we were comfortable with our decision to change objectives. By the time we had arrived at the Shingo La, the clouds had rolled in and it was drizzling again. We tried to stay out of the wind and waited for the Sanjay and the horses to bring the tentage.
Once camp was set, Kyle and I decided to try an unnamed 6000 metre peak to the west of the Shingo La. As with Gangstan we decided to conduct a reconnaissance to decide a route the next day.
Once again, the day was clear as we made our way up the scree to the dry glacier which was covered with snow from the recent weather. Although we were only on a reconnaissance, we found our selves being drawn on towards the summit as we reconnoitred each stage. Before long we found ourselves at 5700 metre on the summit ridge and the thought of a trip to the summit was in our minds when once again the weather came in and we decided to return.
By the time I hit the Shingo La, I was shattered and it was cold and snowing lightly. It was hard to get my head around going back to the summit. We decided to take a rest day and consider our options.
The light snow continued overnight and we awoke to a heavy dusting of snow over the camp. I was still tired and to climb the following day would mean a trip to the summit followed by a walk out to Zanskar Sumdo to meet the vehicle for the drive back to Manali all in the same day. It wasn't going to work in the time available so we decided to pack up and walk out.
We headed back down the valley to Zanskar Sumdo but in order to speed our trip home we decided to continue to Darcha to reach a telephone to bring forward the vehicle. Kunsong went ahead on a motor bike, unfortunately the phone wasn't working. We make camp and for the first time this evening sky was free of cloud.
The following day Gomba and Kunsong waited for the vehicle as we walked down the road. Before too long Luke had hitched a ride with Tashi, who was from one of the villages that dotted the valley and grew vegetables and millet in a terraced field.
We rode with Tashi to Darcha where, after a few minutes we secured the ride in the tray of a Bolero pick up truck to Keylong. It was a great feeling riding in the back of the truck in the bright sunshine watching the world pass by. Before lone we were back in Keylong for a well earned shower and a big lunch of momo's.
When I called Kate at Keylong I discovered that the late monsoonal surge had caused devastating flooding in Srinigar with 75% of the city underwater. It certainly placed our challenges with the weather in perspective.
Kunsong and Goma caught up with us in Keylong that evening and the following day we set off for Manali. The ride was uneventful until Koksar where we were stopped at the bridge over the Chandra River as the Indian Army had lifted the bridge plate from sections of the span and were replacing girders. We were told that the work would take 6 hours so we decided to use the girders to climb around the missing bridge plates to reach the other side and to try to find a ride to Manali. After some tea and Aloo Paratha, we found a car for the final leg of the journey back to Manali.
 |
| Horses trying to stay warm in the rain on Rhotang pass |
 |
| Looking north over the town of Keylong. If you want good Momo's try Himalayan Dhaba on the right as you walk downhill |
I met Luke and Kyle, an Alaskan guide, in Manali along with Kunsong, a Nepali living in Manali and Gomba Sherpa from the Khumbu. We were also joined by Charles from the Philippines They both regularly work for Luke. We finalised the gear before loading the van and heading into the drizzle over Rhotang Pass and onto Keylong in the Bhagra Valley. After settling into the hotel we headed up to the local monastery which was perched above the town in order to help with our acclimitisation.
 |
| Kunsong and Gomba in the kitchen tent where they prepared Momo's, Pizza's, wonderful bread and Brushetta |
 |
| The stupa at the entry to the Monastery |
After a stiff uphill walk of a few hundred vertical metre we arrived at the Shashur Monastery which means "in the blue pines" and had great views over the valley.
 |
| The entry above the main chaitaya |
The Monastery was established in the 17th century by Lama Deva Gyatso who was a missionary of the King of Bhutan. When Deva Gyatso was cremated his heart did not burn and is now contained in a black image of the Lama within the Monastery. The wall have a depiction. In June/July Chham or Devil Dance is performed in the Monastery and devotees travel from around the region to attend.
 |
| Prayer wheels |
Today the Monastery belongs to the Drukpa order of monks and, unlike some other orders these guys are monks for life.
 |
| We had the opportunity to enjoy some wonderful hospitality |
Their headquarters is in Darjeeling and the Head Monk gave us a tour then invited us up for tea and tsampa. The Monk was drawing to the end of his three year posting in Keylong and was due to return to Darjeeling to meet his holiness who would decide his next posting. It all sounded a little like being in the Army to me.
 |
| Drizzle at the bleak roadhead at Zanskar Sumdo |
The following day we set off for the road head at Zanskar Sumdo. There were stops at Satingri to pick up some refrigerated Juniper branches for the pre climb pooja followed by a passport check and Tibetan mutton momos at Darcha.
 |
| Spectacular shrubs for our walk in to a better camp |
We unloaded at Zanskar Sumdo and met the horseman, Sanjay. Gomba and Kunsong supervised the loading and we set off for a two hour walk to a better campsite up the valley. in what was to become a pattern for the trip, the rain descended and we huddled waiting for the horses with the tentage in the rain.
 |
| The view south east from the first camp and the horses appreciated the fodder |
The valley was not a dry as the Zanskar valley and was full of red shrubs and other small plants while the campsite was by a stream and there was a nice grass cover for the horses.
 |
| Sanjay our ever cheerful and helpful horseman |
Sanjay and his team of six horse and one mule work for Luke for 100 days during the monsoon. Based in Manali, Sanjay walks his horse around 250 km north of Manali to support Luke's trips in Ladakh, gradually moving south as the monsoon recedes. This was his last trip before the horses return to the pasture at Manali and start their job moving firewood for winter.
The following day we sorted some climbing protocols before moving up to the base camp which was situated below the dry glacier, beyond which the horses could not proceed.
 |
| The drizzle cleared later in the afternoon to give us an appreciation of the valley |
We trimmed down our gear that afternoon and broke lunch rations for the high camp while Gomba and Kunsong prepared the group gear to carry up to the high camp in the morning. The day finished with the peaks to the south clouded in and we hoped for better in the morning.
 |
| Luke and Gomba buringing the Juniper branches before putting out our prayer flags. We needed all the help we could get with the weather |
 |
| Kyle and Charles scrambling up the terminal moraine |
Despite my concerns, the day was clear for the pooja and after the Juniper finished burning, we se off up the river toward the dry glacier. After negotiating the terminal moraine the dry glacier was a like a highway leading our camp.
Unfortunately, after starting with clear sky, the afternoon saw the cloud roll in and we made camp while light snow fell steadily. Our plan the next day was to climb to the col at about 5400 metres and to scout a route. Gomba and Kunsong left us for the Base Camp and Kyle and Luke prepared a culinary delight for dinner.
 |
| The dry glacier, our road to the high camp |
As we were not trying to summit, we woke late and set off at about 9 am and made steady progress to the col, arriving after about 3 hours after navigating our way through crevasses. To the south lay the region from Kirting to Udaipur and we spotted a good route to the summit for the following day. We plodded back to camp as the clouds rolled in through the afternoon although they were much lighter than the previous day. Maybe the weather was going to smile on us.
 |
| The moon setting in the morning to the west. Gangstan is on the left and we planned to climb the left ridge |
 |
| Luke gaining the rice on the ridge and we were able to climb higher to the left |
We woke early with the moon setting in the south west and clear skies. There was a good freeze overnight and we were able to move quickly through the crevasse field by following our steps from the previous day. We reached to col in a little over two hours and started simu-climbing up the ridge. Low on the ridge the conditions underfoot were good but higher there was unconsolidated snow over rock bands. We climbed up to a vertical ice wall on the ridge which had good ice below the snow and we were able to follow the base of the ice as we ascended the ridge.
 |
| Descending from the ridge from V thread in the ice |
We kept a weather eye and by mid day the skies were still clear. A few stacked lenticular clouds started to appear then some high fast moving cirrus. Within an hour a cloud bank had built up and was closing in and Kyle and I were concerned about the weather. In addition, Luke's toe was feeling the affect of the cold and we were still 150 vertical metres from the top which would take us another two hours to ascend and one hour to descend. With these factors in mind we decided to call it a day.
Six 50 metre abseils saw us in a position to down climb and, when we looked back up, our high point was enveloped in cloud. By the time we were back at our High Camp the col was blanketed in cloud and it was snowing on the tents.
 |
| Much to our frustration, the next day was clear in the morning. Descending the dry glacier to our Base Camp |
 |
| Our cook tent by moonlight |
We backed up and headed back to our Base Camp to wash clothes and bodies and laze in the sun. Once again a fine morning gave away to return of the clouds covering the peaks in the afternoon.
We reviewed our plans that evening. Given the limited weather window that was being offered, we were not going to be able to climb the 1500 vertical metres from the high camp on Ramjack to the summit. We re-calibrated our thinking and Luke suggested that we head up to the Shingo La to the north on the border between Lahul and Zanskar. There were three viable 6000 metre peaks and I had hoped that being further north would reduce the moisture and give us a bigger weather window.
 |
| The locals had laid out the welcome mat |
 |
| My little friend and my whistle |
The following day would be long as we needed to move back to the road head at Zanskar sumdo and then up a trail to the Shingo La, a total of about 18km. It was a pleasant walk back to Zanskar Sumbo where we stopped at the tea house. Much to our surprise our inquiries revealed that the road, past of India's objective of a road to every village by 2020, was navigable by Tata Sum to half way to the Shingo La. An even bigger surprise was that there was a Tata Sumo sitting at the tea house. While Luke negotiated with the driver I played with Karma Pegma, giver of karma, who was now the proud owner of my new Fox 40 rescue whistle. I am sure that Karma Pegma's mother contemplated her karma as she spent time with her small child with a loud whistle.
We bounced our way up the new road past workers from Bihar using sledgehammers and small hammers to break down rock for aggregate and gravel and bulldozers pushing through the road. After about 6 km the road ended and we were back on foot thankful for the break from walking. We drove past the high camp for Ramjack with the peak towering 1500 metres above and we were comfortable with our decision to change objectives. By the time we had arrived at the Shingo La, the clouds had rolled in and it was drizzling again. We tried to stay out of the wind and waited for the Sanjay and the horses to bring the tentage.
 |
| Sheltering from the wind and drizzle just below the Shingo La |
Once camp was set, Kyle and I decided to try an unnamed 6000 metre peak to the west of the Shingo La. As with Gangstan we decided to conduct a reconnaissance to decide a route the next day.
 |
| A bit of a flare up in the kitchen |
 |
| Our ridge but once again the weather was deteriorating rapidly |
Once again, the day was clear as we made our way up the scree to the dry glacier which was covered with snow from the recent weather. Although we were only on a reconnaissance, we found our selves being drawn on towards the summit as we reconnoitred each stage. Before long we found ourselves at 5700 metre on the summit ridge and the thought of a trip to the summit was in our minds when once again the weather came in and we decided to return.
By the time I hit the Shingo La, I was shattered and it was cold and snowing lightly. It was hard to get my head around going back to the summit. We decided to take a rest day and consider our options.
 |
| Frosted scenery in the morning |
The light snow continued overnight and we awoke to a heavy dusting of snow over the camp. I was still tired and to climb the following day would mean a trip to the summit followed by a walk out to Zanskar Sumdo to meet the vehicle for the drive back to Manali all in the same day. It wasn't going to work in the time available so we decided to pack up and walk out.
 |
| A crop of cauliflowers in the terraced fields on the way to Darcha |
We headed back down the valley to Zanskar Sumdo but in order to speed our trip home we decided to continue to Darcha to reach a telephone to bring forward the vehicle. Kunsong went ahead on a motor bike, unfortunately the phone wasn't working. We make camp and for the first time this evening sky was free of cloud.
 |
| Small villages and terraced fields |
The following day Gomba and Kunsong waited for the vehicle as we walked down the road. Before too long Luke had hitched a ride with Tashi, who was from one of the villages that dotted the valley and grew vegetables and millet in a terraced field.
 |
| It was obvious from reactions that the locals were not accustomedto white guys in the back of pick ups |
We rode with Tashi to Darcha where, after a few minutes we secured the ride in the tray of a Bolero pick up truck to Keylong. It was a great feeling riding in the back of the truck in the bright sunshine watching the world pass by. Before lone we were back in Keylong for a well earned shower and a big lunch of momo's.
 |
| Lahul traffic jam |
When I called Kate at Keylong I discovered that the late monsoonal surge had caused devastating flooding in Srinigar with 75% of the city underwater. It certainly placed our challenges with the weather in perspective.
Kunsong and Goma caught up with us in Keylong that evening and the following day we set off for Manali. The ride was uneventful until Koksar where we were stopped at the bridge over the Chandra River as the Indian Army had lifted the bridge plate from sections of the span and were replacing girders. We were told that the work would take 6 hours so we decided to use the girders to climb around the missing bridge plates to reach the other side and to try to find a ride to Manali. After some tea and Aloo Paratha, we found a car for the final leg of the journey back to Manali.
 |
| Luke contemplating a career in engineering while inspecting the missing bridge plates. We climbed across the girders on the right. |
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| A friendly vulture, the picture does not capture the smell of the dead horse which was at our feet |
