New Routes
Our local climbing crew have all returned from our Christmas break and it was a month before we were able to get people together for a climb. We were keen on something new and were considering heading to Pune for a weekend at Sinahad Fort and the Plus Valley near Lake Mulshi where we had information on some routes.
Fate intervened and we were not able to get away so we went back to Navi Mumbai on Sunday morning. I was not paying attention while leading and had decked out, my feet after popping off while clipping a bolt with a metre of slack in my hand. Thomas had done a great job of minimizing the damage with the rope stretch taking up before my coccyx hit the ground. Despite his masterful belaying, my heel was bruised so we wandered off to the bouldering spot on the other side of the valley as I had not been there for years and I wanted to show Thomas and Ali.
The usual crowd was there as was Bong who told us about the new routes they had been working on. When I first met Bong it seemed like this side of the Valley was a hot hellhole that was only good for bouldering in the shade. He told us that they had recently put up about 7 new routes and that at this time of the year the cliff came into the shade at 2pm which made the climbing not unpleasant. So instead of going to Pune, we committed to return to try some of the new routes.
The following Sunday I had a pleasant late sleep in which is unusual for me on a Sunday morning. Yoga with Kate and a leisurely breakfast followed before setting off to pick up Thomas and Ali. We drove in on to the western side of the valley and walked in.
First on the tick list were some low grade slabs, maybe 4b, which were intended to provide an intro to lead climbing for people. Bong was true to his word and Ali was able to lead her first climb. There was only two downsides, a single bolt belay which was into rock with a disconcertingly hollow ring when I knocked on the rock and the smallish rocks that came down when you pulled your ropes. Like everywhere in Navi Mumbai, this was helmet country. These two low angled slabs are at the bottom of the cliff at the same level as the boulders at Lat 19N 02' 18" Long 73E 02 24"
Once we were finished on the two slab routes, we climbed up to the main crag. It was quiet, there was a slight breeze and a great view, perfect surroundings for day out climbing. There was another party who had occupied the two easiest climbs on this section of cliff so we set off up what the locals referred to as a 5.10c or 6c. Normally this is slight above my grade, despite this I took the sharp end and headed up.
The rock is basalt and was quite compact and mostly less than 90 degrees. Despite all the grass, which made the crag look all rather agricultural, is wasn't too bad in between the foliage. The routes were dirty though, a function of slabs, monsoons and not much traffic. This route is the first on you encounter after walking up the foot pad. For those of you with a GPS it is at Lat 19N 02' 13" Long 73E 02 22".
As the route had not seem a lot of traffic, there were few obvious chalk marked to follow. I was pleasantly surprised as the hold seem to materialise as I climbed. I was able to move through the first 6 bolts but i was a little burnt out by the time I hit the last bolt and I was not comfortable making the move. I lowered off and passed the lead to Thomas who was able to work his way through to the anchors.
The route was great. Nice sequences that required balance on route that forced you to trust your feet. That was a little difficult for me give my feet had popped of an easier route the week before and the rock can be very dirty.
We are still planning to go to Pune but we will probably put it off until after the Oman trip and focus on coming to grips with the new Routes in Navi Mumbai.
The view towards the morning crag above the slum on the left hand side of the photo just above the band of trees |
Fate intervened and we were not able to get away so we went back to Navi Mumbai on Sunday morning. I was not paying attention while leading and had decked out, my feet after popping off while clipping a bolt with a metre of slack in my hand. Thomas had done a great job of minimizing the damage with the rope stretch taking up before my coccyx hit the ground. Despite his masterful belaying, my heel was bruised so we wandered off to the bouldering spot on the other side of the valley as I had not been there for years and I wanted to show Thomas and Ali.
The view over CBD Belapur. Its almost scenic. |
A 4a/b slab. Good for a first lead just make sure you wear a helmet and be careful of the single bolt belay! |
The usual crowd was there as was Bong who told us about the new routes they had been working on. When I first met Bong it seemed like this side of the Valley was a hot hellhole that was only good for bouldering in the shade. He told us that they had recently put up about 7 new routes and that at this time of the year the cliff came into the shade at 2pm which made the climbing not unpleasant. So instead of going to Pune, we committed to return to try some of the new routes.
Franco, a local climber on a 6a ish slab, Don't let the grass put you off. |
The following Sunday I had a pleasant late sleep in which is unusual for me on a Sunday morning. Yoga with Kate and a leisurely breakfast followed before setting off to pick up Thomas and Ali. We drove in on to the western side of the valley and walked in.
A harder route for when I lose some weight. Bong says it is around 7a |
First on the tick list were some low grade slabs, maybe 4b, which were intended to provide an intro to lead climbing for people. Bong was true to his word and Ali was able to lead her first climb. There was only two downsides, a single bolt belay which was into rock with a disconcertingly hollow ring when I knocked on the rock and the smallish rocks that came down when you pulled your ropes. Like everywhere in Navi Mumbai, this was helmet country. These two low angled slabs are at the bottom of the cliff at the same level as the boulders at Lat 19N 02' 18" Long 73E 02 24"
Not really 6c maybe 6a |
Once we were finished on the two slab routes, we climbed up to the main crag. It was quiet, there was a slight breeze and a great view, perfect surroundings for day out climbing. There was another party who had occupied the two easiest climbs on this section of cliff so we set off up what the locals referred to as a 5.10c or 6c. Normally this is slight above my grade, despite this I took the sharp end and headed up.
The rock is basalt and was quite compact and mostly less than 90 degrees. Despite all the grass, which made the crag look all rather agricultural, is wasn't too bad in between the foliage. The routes were dirty though, a function of slabs, monsoons and not much traffic. This route is the first on you encounter after walking up the foot pad. For those of you with a GPS it is at Lat 19N 02' 13" Long 73E 02 22".
Ali cruising her way up the rock |
As the route had not seem a lot of traffic, there were few obvious chalk marked to follow. I was pleasantly surprised as the hold seem to materialise as I climbed. I was able to move through the first 6 bolts but i was a little burnt out by the time I hit the last bolt and I was not comfortable making the move. I lowered off and passed the lead to Thomas who was able to work his way through to the anchors.
Something supposedly easier for next week |
The route was great. Nice sequences that required balance on route that forced you to trust your feet. That was a little difficult for me give my feet had popped of an easier route the week before and the rock can be very dirty.
A zoom shot from the car park showing the area of the 5 routes on the upper cliff line. |
We are still planning to go to Pune but we will probably put it off until after the Oman trip and focus on coming to grips with the new Routes in Navi Mumbai.