Kashmir 2014
 |
| Everything you need for a ski trip, a cheap room, ski gear and six Kingfisher Strong beers |
I was more prepared for this trip to Kashmir than ever before. I had included legs into my weight routine and had trained in a hypoxic chamber for the month leading up to the trip.When I was last in France I had purchase myself an avalanche airbag pack to help reduce the outcomes associated with avalanche risk. I was ready.
 |
| Kashmiri food stalls a the top of Stage 1, while the Valley was in cloud it was all sun on the slopes |
Now with the unpredictable nature of work I only had 5 days away which included two travel days.
My first challenge was getting the compressed air bottle, which was part of my avalanche back pack, on the aircraft in Mumbai. It is approved for air travel by IATA but it still took 45 minutes of arguing and all the IATA Guidelines in my hands. It helped escalating it to the Head of Security who finally said that it wasn't a security issue but a dangerous cargo issue. A phone call to the Dangerous Cargo Manager and I was able to load my canister into the ski bag. Declaring victory over Indian bureaucracy, as it turned out, much like George Bush on that aircraft carrier deck.
 A big sky and the view to Nanga Parbat |
 |
| Maybe he could help with my bag! |
The flight to Srinagar was uneventful but, on arrival, no ski bag. So much for my victory in Mumbai and I prepared for the long insurgency. There is no lost luggage department at Srinagar Airport and I spent two hours chasing different men around the airport. Airline systems were down, there were no lost luggage forms and the Indigo hotline was not answering, classic India.
 |
| Traffic was busy on the way to Gulmarg |
I smiled, gave up and headed to Gulmarg where I tried to cobble together some ski gear, the most difficult issue being some telemark skis. But, thanks to my old friend Ali at Kashmir Ski Mont, I was able to get some gear.
So, I set off on Friday morning in my baggy "freeride" low hanging crutch gangster pants from Ali's shop, my down jacket and an old and beaten up pair of K2 Anti Piste mounted with Rottefella Cobras. I should be thankful because in many ski locations it is impossible to hire telemark gear. Stage Two had just opened to the top of the mountain since the storm cycle finished. Outside the avalanche controlled area the risk of avalanche was rated as considerable. Although I had done some very specific training, I was a little nervous about the unfamiliar skis and my dodgy knee.
 |
| Some fresh on the hill below Mary's Shoulder |
I shouldn't have worried, the skis handled the conditions well, my knee behaved and my training really showed results. The hypoxic chamber training had been a bit of an experiment but, even after cutting back my running kilometres and running at lower speeds in the hypoxic chamber, I felt fit. I didn't even have a hint of a headache on arrival and I was able to get more turns in before stopping to catch my breath than is normally the case on day one. I couldn't be happier.
 |
| In deeper |
 |
| The two avalanche paths, one to skiers left and one to the right of the spur in the centre. It ran about 400 vertical metres |
It was a perfect day but after my second run we became aware that a big avalanche had been triggered in the adjacent valley. Reports were that three of six guided skiers had been caught in an avalanche with three buried. Two of the burials were shallow and they were unable to dig out a third before he died. Two other skiers had minor injuries and among the surviving skiers were the two daughters of the man who died.
 |
| Mt Araphiwat North Bowl on the southerly aspect trying to keep the slopes below 35 deg |
It was a tragic event and a reminder of the dangers inherent in a mountain environment.
 |
| Our handiwork on Mt Araphiwat South Bowl north aspect |
I woke to hope of receiving my skis. I was told in the morning that they would arrive in Srinagar at 1330 hrs on Friday and I called at 1400 hrs and was told that they would be transported to my Hotel. This is roughly the chain of events:
- 1600 no skis. Called Indigo to be told that they hadn't sent them yet and they would send them tomorrow. I highlighted that I had no clothes and I need the bag asap. I was told that they would dispatch it immediately.
- 1800 received a phone call that the skis were in Tangmarg but no-one will drive to Gulmarg because the road is too icy at that time. I resigned myself to a third day with the same clothes
 |
| On the spur above Mary's Shoulder |
- 0830 Saturday Ali calls me to tell me that a friend is coming up from Tangmarg and can bring my skis. I call Indigo to check the status and am told the the skis are in transit to Gulmarg.
-0900 the person tasked to bring the skis tells me that he is yet to leave. Unfortunately Ali's friend had already left Tangmarg.
-0910 I call Ali with the number of the driver. Ali tells me that he is in a village some distance from Tangmarg with my skis and Mushtaq, our regular driver will go and get them.
-1100 my skis and clothes arrive.
 |
| Mt Araphiwat North Bowl south aspect |
 |
| Heading out the drainage below Mt Araphiwat North Bowl |
After a delayed start, I finally got on the snow. Phase 2 was still closed but we had fun skiing off the chair and even found some fresh lines through the Pepper Trees.
 |
| The run out towards the trees |
Next day was great, cloudy in Gulmarg village but sunny from half way up Stage 1. A quick run on the chair followed by three good runs before lunch two of which were in Mt Araphiwat South Bowl followed by lunch and a great run down Araphiwat North Bowl and then a sublime glide through the trees to Gulmarg Village
 |
| Two snow chains didn't help this guy who has struck an Indian Army Suzuki. 15 minutes of arguing ensued while the traffic backed up. The removal of the car resulted in a scene similar to the Pace Car being removed in a NASCAR race |
Mt trip was over all too quick and I was thankful for the good conditions while I was there. It is amazing to see the change as more foreign skiers visit Gulmarg. Ali had opened his shop and our regular driver Mustaq had even purchased a second snow chain. That said he used it reluctantly as I am sure that he felt that is constrained his ability to "express himself" through his driving.
 |
| An old friend, Nanda Devi on the flight out |
