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A simple step well at Chandelao |
I must admit that I find step wells the most fascinating piece of ancient public works in India. I have had the good fortune to visit a basic step well at the village of Chandelao in Rajasthan that still forms an integral part on daily village life, the spectacular step well at Chand Baori and, my most recent visit, the Adalaj step well near Ahmedabad.
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Stages for performances and... |
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..steps that double as seating at
Chand Baori |
I have been to Ahmedabad on many occasions, mostly flying in for a day of meetings before flying out again. On a recent trip, the meetings finished earlier than planned, which is unusual in India, and I had some time before my flight. I decided that a quick trip to Adalaj was in order.
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The view from the stairs down to the water |
This step well was built in 1499 by Muslim king Mohammed Begda for Queen Rani Roopba, wife of Veer Singh, a local chieftain. Adalaj step well was built in sand stone in Indo-Islamic architectural style and is five stories deep to allow the users to access the subterranean water. The varying levels allowed people to access the water as the water table would fluctuate.
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The octagonal shaft above the water |
The opening above the well is octagonal and has been built on intricately carved large number of pillars. Each floor is spacious enough to provide for people to congregate for socializing or for ceremonies. Unlike the step well at Chand Baori there is no are use explicitly for performances and which had pumping mechanisms and an underground tunnel to an adjacent temple
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Across the water at the bottom of the well |
The walls are carved with women performing daily chores such as churning of buttermilk and dressing in their jewelry. It also includes scenes detailing performances of dancers and musicians, and the King overlooking all these activities
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Carved pillars supporting the 5 story structure |
The only problem with this type of short notice opportuntites is that I was without my good camera and, unfotunately, an iPhone camera does not to justice to the scale and graduer of the step well. The best part was that it didn't feel too touristy. No touts, beggars and the locals were largely indifferent to my presence.
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Looking back to the entry of the well |