Koh Yao Noi Rockclimbing

The view of the Islands from our Pavilion

As per normal Kate and I were looking for a Monsoon escape with the usual criteria and we were keen on Thailand.  I had climbed at Railay Beach in Krabi in the mid 90's and loved it but it seemed that the crags were now very busy and the limestone had become very polished on some routes.

The longtail ride from Phuket to Koh Yao Noi

On the same trip in the mid 90's we stayed at Phi Phi with the hope of getting some climbing done but at the time the bolts on the routes were rusted out and dangerous. It seemed from the net that Phi Phi had been re-bolted which was good but I struggled to find suitable accommodation for a family of four at a reasonable price.

Rubber plantations on the ride to the crags

After more research, we settled on Koh Yao Noi, an island between Phuket and Krabi but to the north of Phi Phi in Phang Na Bay with a population of around 3, 500. The island is unusual in that it is predominantly Muslim and from an ethnic group, the Mons who are originally from peninsula Malaysia. The economy is based more on agriculture than tourism so, combined with the influence of Islam, you avoid some of the seedier aspects of holidaying in Thailand.

















There are very few cars so I felt comfortable on a scooter with the kids and the scooter was great for accessing the majority of the crags. There is an 18km concrete ring road with dirt road leading off through rubber plantations to the crags and very few cars.We were able to get a wonderful open air family pavilion overlooking the beach in a Koyao Island Resort for a reasonable price.

A stray Australian we picked up cleaning
a route on Bee Wall (The Mitt)

Best of all the climbing area had only recently been opened so this meant that the routes were not polished and, best of all, the vast majority of the bolts were titanium which removed most of the risk associated with old bolts in Thai coastal limestone. The majority of the climbing is accessible by road through Paradise Resort via a rough but interesting dirt road.  You park at the resort then walk along the beach to the crags which are easy to find.  Check for any closures at the Mountain Shop where you can buy a guide and be careful of bees and snakes.

The routine was reasonably predictable. On the road by 07.30 am and get back by midday so I could get out with the girls. Kate was not keen to belay me so I contacted Dhut through the Mountain Shop, the local guiding operation and gear store.  There were not many climbers around so he was happy to guide me around, belay me while I led the climbs and then clean the routes for half a day for a modest price. After I had exhausted my self I would be back to Koyao Island resort for lunch and a swim with the girls.

The crag as from Paradise resort with Ao Po Nui Tower,
Dump Wall and Mitt Wall visible

We were in Koh Yao Noi in July so it was steamy but there was no rain so the early finishes coincided with day heating up. What temperature did mean is that by then end of a session my chalk bag was a sodden mess and Dhut has spent much of his time trying to avoid the stream of sweat that was pouring off me as a climbed. At one point Dhut was lowering me off when he saw a somewhat agitated snake under and over hang below me. A big bounce and and some slack from Dhut enabled me to clear it.  Needless to say, it didn't help with my sweat problem.

Dhut seconding a route at Dump Wall

The highlight of the trip was a day out climbing off a long tail at Grateful Wall, a magic crag with a number of classic 6a and 6b routes.  Lucy stayed behind but Ada, Kate and I enjoyed an early morning swim at a nearby island while waiting for the crag to move into the shade. We then moored near the crag and I enjoyed some quality climbing as the girls swam.  It is always good when everyone is happy!.  Dhut organised a lunch of fresh Thai salad and pineapple, Asian heaven.

Dump Wall

There were a number of good quality restaurants on the Island with Je T'aime being our favourite but there being plenty of good quality and cheaper options. There is enough of a tourist industry to ensure that you can get anything that you may need. The nearby diving does not compare with Phi Phi and most of the beaches are not sandy. You can organise a boat to Phi Phi if you want amazing diving. That said, I would go back in the blink of an eye but there was not enough shopping for Lucy and she spent much of her time wishing for shopping malls.  I guess it shows that you cant please everyone.