Risk Reward and Skiing in Kashmir

Risk and reward can be seen as two sides of the same coin.  Normally, when you go to a downhill skiing resort, the coins that you flip are small, small risk small reward.  One of the reasons that I love Gulmarg is that you play the game with bigger coins.

Paul and Sam, my brother in-law and nephew, had heard great reports about Gulmarg from Jack, Sam's brother, despite Jack coughing up blood for most of his stay.  They decided that a visit to India was in order and, as Sam is a keen skier,  Gulmarg was the priority destination.

The adventure started when we boarded the aircraft in Mumbai when I was informed by a Kashmiri on the same flight that Afzal Guru, a Kashmiri native who had been convicted of supporting a terrorist attack on the Indian Parliament, had been executed earlier that morning.  Needless to say things were going to be interesting in Srinagar as this had occurred after a number of fatal military clashes on the Line of Control.

On arrival at the airport at Srinagar, Mushtaq, our very reliable driver, was nowhere to be seen.  I called him to discover that a curfew had been put in place by the Indian security forces and Srinagar had become impassable.  To make matters worse, the town where Afzal Guru had resided lay between Gulmarg and Srinagar.  To avoid spending a night sleeping outside the airport, I called Kate to organise a hotel. After a quick net search and a phone call, we had a room at the Dar-Es-Salam Hotel.  Kate provided reassurance by telling us that it was No.1 on Trip Adviser.  Given the state of play in Kashmir, the number of Trip Advisor stars did not seem overly important.

Our refuge, but what is the Trip Advisor rating?

The next challenge was to get to the Hotel, the owner informed us that the Hotel was inaccessible by road due to the security force's roadblocks accross the city but if we could get to the Ghat on Dal Lake then he could send a boat to pick us up.

After organising a taxi we set off toward the city but half-way to the Ghat we pulled over behind a car load of Russians.  I was unable to determine what was going on as we sat there for 15 minutes.  Although no one mentioned anything, I am sure that all we had images of Daniel Pearl flashing through our minds as we were joined by a car load of Kashmiris.  They opened the boot of the car to pull out a carton of Vodka, much to the relief of the Russians and myself although I am sure the relief was for different reasons.  We then set off in convoy towards Srinagar with the Kashmiri drivers taking comfort in strength in numbers.

Contemplating political unrest or looking at the holes in the pier

We were dropped off at the Ghat on Dal Lake and called the Hotel owner to let him know that we had arrived.  He indicated that they were 10 minutes away and, 10 minutes later a boat arrived with the Hotel Manager and two chain smoking boatmen.

Not a very subtle way of avoiding road blocks...

We then started paddling on the lake then canals to the Hotel only then realising that the boat had been 10 minutes away, not the Hotel.  We spent the next hour traversing canals connecting  Dal Lake and Nagin Lake and getting some great views of old local buildings and everyday life on the Lake before arriving at our hotel.

...... but very comfortable!

The boatmen without cigarettes

Houses lining the canal...

....many vacant since the Hindu Kashmiris
moved to Jammu

The Dar-Es-Salam was a superb 1940's house perched on the edge of Nagin Lake and still in the hands of the family that had built it.  We were treated to a spectacular sunset over the Lake with Hari Parbat Fort on the hill in the background.  At these times it is really hard to take a bad photograph of India.  I spoke to Ali, my usual ski guide who informed me that Mushtaq was confident that the security forces would go to bed and that it would be possible to drive through the City, despite the curfew, if we left after mid-night.

Collecting lotus roots

Hard to take a bad photo

Sunset behind the Fort

After an nap, Mushtaq arrived as scheduled and we set off at breakneck speed through the deserted streets of Srinagar with Mushtaq intent on not stopping for anyone.  Indeed, the security forces and any local separatists had decided that it was too late and cold and the drive proved to be somewhat of an anti-climax.  On arrival in Tangmarg, Mushtaq smiled for the first time and said that the dangerous part was over.  Unfortunately, we still had a steep snow and ice covered road to navigate with no snow chains in sight so I wasn't as confident as Mushtaq that the dangers were behind us.  Despite my slight concerns we arrived safe and sound.

The next morning we woke to blue skies but also to a strike imposed by the separatists which meant that the Gondola would not run that day.  Not to be deterred Ali organised Mushtaq for some poor mans heli-skiing.  This involves being dropped by Tata Sumo on the edge of the Gulmarg Plateau and left to ski down to Babershei, a village between Gulmarg and Tangmarg, before being picked up again by Mushtaq.  Ali wasn't able to join us as he was undergoing heli-ski guide training which is a great opportunity for him. As a result, we were to be escorted by Ali's brother, Zoor, so we loaded our skis and set off for our first run.

It wasn't long before the lack of chains saw us, not for the first time that day, pushing the car over a slippery section.  Not long after, Mushtaq lost power from the engine and Zoor lifted the hood to pump madly on the priming pump but this was to no avail.  The Sumo, now stalled, was going nowhere due to the wax in the diesel staring to solidify.  Mushtaq and Zoor disappeared to the rear of the Sumo as we chatted.  After a few minutes, Paul noticed a burning smell so we got out of the car to investigate.  Much to our surprise, Mushtaq had gathered some cardboard and, using the now removed number plate as a platform, had lit a fire under the fuel tank to warm the diesel.  Thank goodness diesel is not very explosive and that the tank was not plastic!  Despite this unorthodox approach, the Sumo started and we were soon on our way.

Is there something burning?

Sammy blasting down between the trees

The runs at Babershei were steep, through trees and the snow was heavy so it proved to be a challenging day.  After each run we were met by Mushtaq who slid his way back up the hill, some times going straight and sometimes sideways but always honking, yelling, waving his arms and occasionally stopping to chat to a friend heading in the opposite direction.  It was during one of these rides that we became familiar with the "Cult of Jack", Sam's older brother who came skiing in Gulamrg the previous year.  When chatting to a friend, Mushtaq pointed out that Paul was Jack's dad.  The other driver's eyes widened "Jack's Dad?" he yelled between cars then showed us a photo of Jack on his phone from the previous year.  We were welcomed like long lost cousins with the driver insisting that we ride with him tomorrow.  Despite the troubles in Kashmir, the welcome of the locals in Gulmarg is always warm.  Paul is now forever known in Gulmarg as "Jack's Dad".

The next day we had a couple of runs from the summit with Ali's brother, Shokat, complete with spectacular views of the main Himalayan range including Nanga Parbat. There was a very low risk of avalanche which meant that any route was safe to ski with the usual precautions. The next day, after some morning runs from the summit with Paul, Sam and I were accompanied by Rivzwan, Shokat's brother-in-law, for a ski run down to the village of Drung.  As you can see, skiing is very much the family business in Gulmarg.

Paul contemplating the next turn

Enjoying the view of the main Himalayan Range

We set out on long ski run of 1650 vertical metres through the Drung Bowls down to the village of Drung, not fay from Tangmarg.   The run had it all,  views toward Pakistan, powder, chowder (chopped powder), a little icy crud combined with a flat ski to the road and a dodgy bridge in a hydro construction site.  Something for everyone.  We joined a UK couple for the drive back to Gulmarg and while they stopped for a 5pm lunch, Sam and I practiced using the avalanche trancievers while watching a stand-off in the Tangmarg monkey versus dog cold war.  Comparisons could be made to the Line of Control but that would be unkind.

Setting off for Drung with the Pakistan Border on the skyline

Surveying our handiwork in an untracked bowl

Me admiring the view of Drung Bowls,
Sammy playing a game on the iPod!

The ski out but .....

... the worst part was the foot bridge

One of the features for me of this visit to Gulmarg was the increased number of Russian skiers.  I didn't speak to any Russians during the trip so, although their queuing etiquette reminded me of a Mumbai shopping check out,  I don't want to draw too many generalizations.   Needless to say, the increase in Russian visitors has encouraged the Kashmiris to learn some Russian phrases.  Over lunch we heard our waiter at our usual lunch spot practicing Russian and I inquired as to how many words he has mastered.  He didn't know "da" or "nyet" or any other common Russian words or phrases.  When I asked him the English translation of the Russian phrase he was practicing he replied "calm down".

Russians choosing sides in the Tangmarg Dog Vs Monkey war

Dogs are everywhere in the Gulamrg, as in the rest on India, and, for those not comfortable with man's best friend,  they can be a little intimidating.  There is a constant tension between different packs in the area and open war sometimes break out, mostly at 3 am in the morning which doesn't help your sleep patterns.  A new challenge this year were the dogs at the hut along the ridge to the south of the Gondola at 4000 metres.  They chased the skiers and boarders as if they were cars on suburban streets although with much more intent.  Only the slashing of ski poles like charging cavalryman as you sped past seemed to keep them at bay.  I saw at least one snow boarder who fell over as a result of the pursuit. At least skiers have poles at the ready, yet another advantage over snowboarding!

At least the puppies are cute

In the last few days rumors of fresh snow abounded with the usual armchair forecasting on start time and amount.  When it finally came, the mountain was blanketed in over a foot of the fresh stuff overnight with more to come.  This was enough to freshen everything but not enough to shut the mountain.  Even better, it came with little wind so there was no wind slab and the low avalanche forecast remained in force.  Although the Gondola wasn't open, the chair was and we enjoyed two days of great conditions.  Cream on top of the cake.

Sam charging in the "Cold Smoke"

Relaxing at the Alpine Ridge Hotel

After week where time stood still yet seemed to fly past, it was time to plan our departure.  Although the curfew had ended the separatist strike was ongoing and there were reports of rock throwing on our route to Srinagar.  The result was a 7 am Sunday departure for a 2 pm flight with 6 hours enjoying the extensive duty free shopping and wide selection of international cuisine at Srinagar airport.  At least we had plenty of time to enjoy the four levels of screening and frisking required to board the aircraft.

Sammy contemplating the risk and reward

As to the risk reward equation, were the additional risks worth the reward?  Absolutely.  The hospitality of the Kashmiris, the journey, the scenery, the colour, the food, the people you meet and the skiing conditions combined with a big mountain make for a rich and intense experience.  I will definitely be back next year, maybe with Jack in his second coming.