Badami Rockclimbing
In October, the Hindu festival of Dussera and the Muslim Festival of Bakri Eid fell one day apart. As the kids had school, I took the opportunity to take some leave and drive the 600 km from Mumbai to Badami to get in a few days climbing.
I was fortunate that my new climbing partner, Francisco, a Mexican/American spoke fluent Hindi which helped us navigate the country roads as part of our road trip although the further into Karnataka we traveled the less Hindi was spoken . The drive was excellent as the Bangalore Highway had long stretches of high quality toll roads. The secondary roads were poorer quality but the countryside was in harvest mode so there was interesting colour and activity.
Badami provided a heady mix of 8th Century temples and ruins combined with bulletproof quartizitic sandstone which reminded me of Arapilies in terms of colour and texture. The main street was a bustling market town with hundreds of roving pigs providing the waste removal service. The back streets consisted of white washed stone building which were almost Mexican in appearance. Maybe Francisco felt at home!
Our first first trip to the crag proved to be very interesting. We found that many bolts had no hangers and unlike the "carrot" style bolts that are frequently found in in Australia, all that was protruding from the rock was the thread with no bolt head. According to a website, the locals had started taking the hangers and nuts for recycling, very inconvenient. Fortunately, like all good Australian climbers, I had chalk bag full of hangers and we were advised by some Bengali climbers that some Canadians in town had sourced nuts from a local hardware store. We met the Canadians later and and using a nut borrowed from them as a guide, we purchased ten shiny nuts from the local store. The meeting also enabled me to photograph their Badami guide book. Very fortuitous.
It was a new experience leading climbs placing the hanger then screwing the nut onto the bolt head to hold the hanger in place before clipping the quickdraw. However, we were able to rack up five nice on-sites in the first day
After the first day of climbing we visited the rock cut temples set into the side of cliff below the Fort and above the "tank" that provided water to the local community. The cave temples were dedicated to Shiva (534AD), Vishnu (578 AD), Buddist Cave and Jain Temple Cave.
We tried a new climbing location and after battling through thorn bushes we found an interesting area. Once again, five on-sites produced a second good day on the rock.
After we were worn out there was still time in the day so we decided to visit Pattadakal and the unfortunately named Aihole. Pattadakal had a significant temple complex dating from the 7th and 8th century predominantly honouring Shiva. The area was the birth place of Hindu temple architecture found throughout India.
The temples in Aihole dated from the 5th to the 9th century with the most significant being the temple for Durga.
The following day I started the long drive back to Mumbai. We stopped briefly to in a market town to look around their monthly livestock sale. I contemplated buying one of the very "bling" water buffaloes that were on sale to complement the other pets may family has collected since we started living in apartments. It would be certainly easier to train than our street kitten.
I discovered an interesting aspect to the toll road operation in India. I stopped to pay a 58 rupee toll and in place of change I was given three sweets instead of two rupee The next toll booth wanted 62 rupees so I handed over 60 rupees and two sweets, Francisco having eaten one. The toll booth operators were not concerned and the sweets were accepted as legal tender and we even enjoyed the benefits of an escalation in the value of the sweets between the two toll booths.
I was fortunate that my new climbing partner, Francisco, a Mexican/American spoke fluent Hindi which helped us navigate the country roads as part of our road trip although the further into Karnataka we traveled the less Hindi was spoken . The drive was excellent as the Bangalore Highway had long stretches of high quality toll roads. The secondary roads were poorer quality but the countryside was in harvest mode so there was interesting colour and activity.
 |
| The traffic is bad in harvest season |
 |
| The local car wash |
 |
| Every road trip needs a photo of the car |
 |
| Although we saw lots of tractors, almost all ploughs were still pulled by oxen |
Badami provided a heady mix of 8th Century temples and ruins combined with bulletproof quartizitic sandstone which reminded me of Arapilies in terms of colour and texture. The main street was a bustling market town with hundreds of roving pigs providing the waste removal service. The back streets consisted of white washed stone building which were almost Mexican in appearance. Maybe Francisco felt at home!
 |
| The streets in the town below the tank |
Our first first trip to the crag proved to be very interesting. We found that many bolts had no hangers and unlike the "carrot" style bolts that are frequently found in in Australia, all that was protruding from the rock was the thread with no bolt head. According to a website, the locals had started taking the hangers and nuts for recycling, very inconvenient. Fortunately, like all good Australian climbers, I had chalk bag full of hangers and we were advised by some Bengali climbers that some Canadians in town had sourced nuts from a local hardware store. We met the Canadians later and and using a nut borrowed from them as a guide, we purchased ten shiny nuts from the local store. The meeting also enabled me to photograph their Badami guide book. Very fortuitous.
It was a new experience leading climbs placing the hanger then screwing the nut onto the bolt head to hold the hanger in place before clipping the quickdraw. However, we were able to rack up five nice on-sites in the first day
After the first day of climbing we visited the rock cut temples set into the side of cliff below the Fort and above the "tank" that provided water to the local community. The cave temples were dedicated to Shiva (534AD), Vishnu (578 AD), Buddist Cave and Jain Temple Cave.
 |
| Rock cut temples |
 |
| Washing in the tank |
 |
| Temple at the far end of the tank |
 |
| Hanuman carved into the Temple walls |
 |
| The view of the Tank from the Temples |
The next day I took an early morning walk to explore the other sites near the caves. The area was full of old fortifications and temples with people going about their daily business washing and drying clothes.
 |
| The morning washing |
 |
| Even in a UNESCO World Heritage site.... |
 |
| ...everyday life goes on |
 |
| Francisco leading out on the Grey Chair |
We tried a new climbing location and after battling through thorn bushes we found an interesting area. Once again, five on-sites produced a second good day on the rock.
After we were worn out there was still time in the day so we decided to visit Pattadakal and the unfortunately named Aihole. Pattadakal had a significant temple complex dating from the 7th and 8th century predominantly honouring Shiva. The area was the birth place of Hindu temple architecture found throughout India.
 |
| Worthy of a Cecil B De Mille movie |
 |
| Carvings on the temple walls |
 |
| And the best part was that it was clean and well kept. |
 |
| Franciso convinced the entry booth that he was Kashniri to get "local" entry fee |
 |
But they wouldn't accept my Indian PAN card combined with my poor Hindi and blonde hair |
The temples in Aihole dated from the 5th to the 9th century with the most significant being the temple for Durga.
 |
| Aihole, not as bad as it sounds! |
The following day I started the long drive back to Mumbai. We stopped briefly to in a market town to look around their monthly livestock sale. I contemplated buying one of the very "bling" water buffaloes that were on sale to complement the other pets may family has collected since we started living in apartments. It would be certainly easier to train than our street kitten.
 |
| On the way to market 12 goats in the car; 6 guys and 1 goat on the roof |
 |
| A highly polished buffalo |
I discovered an interesting aspect to the toll road operation in India. I stopped to pay a 58 rupee toll and in place of change I was given three sweets instead of two rupee The next toll booth wanted 62 rupees so I handed over 60 rupees and two sweets, Francisco having eaten one. The toll booth operators were not concerned and the sweets were accepted as legal tender and we even enjoyed the benefits of an escalation in the value of the sweets between the two toll booths.
